You may be familiar with the phrase, “Its the Indian not the arrows”. Golfers often use this expression to convey that most errant shots are more often a matter of the player than a matter of their clubs.
However, sometimes it is a matter of the arrows (i.e. our clubs). Most commonly, club problems are less a matter of their brand and more often a matter of how they fit us. We find that one of the most commonly misfit clubs is the putter. The most common problem with the putter is that the shaft has not been sized and is too long. We wind up re-sizing the putters of about 60% of our players. Most in-stock putters have a grip size and shaft length for men 6′ and taller. Both because few shops carry a selection of women’s putters and because women often inherit their putters from male players, women are the most frequent victims of mis-fit putters.
A putter that is too long results in any of three perfomance-robbing outcomes:
The player must get use to holding the putter out from their body which reduces their natural balance and stability. They are more likely to sway and wobble during their putt.
If the player does not hold the putter out from their body the length of the shaft cramps their arms and hands in too close to their body denying them the accuracy of a free flowing swing,
Perhaps most importantly, a putter that is too long denies the player the critical advantage of putting with their eyes DIRECTLY over the line of the putt.
While determining the optimal fit for a putter is a simple matter, it is a more demanding task than we would want to attempt in this article. There is a preliminary way you can check your putter to see if it is seriously misfits you:
Using a two foot piece of tape or string to represent the line of a putt, set up the putter on this line in your regular putting stance.
While being careful not to move your head, release your upper hand from the putter and use it to drop a golf ball from the bridge of your nose.
Watch were it lands relative to that line. Repeat these steps a few times. If the ball doesn’t drop very near the line, its time to take that putter in for adjustment so your eyes are over the line.
If the eyes are not over the line you are making putting more difficult. Many players find that they are standing too far away from the line. When they attempt to move closer they find that the putter grip is rubbing against their clothing or their arms are not free to hang comfortably. If you find this to be true, your putter needs to be re-sized.
While the expense is nominal, you will find the benefit “phe-nomenal”.
We walk into the golf store and there they are. Lined up along the walls, sleek and shiny sets of irons that have the appearance of elegant instruments. We succumb to their beckoning and take one that is most attractive down from its perch. With our hands embracing its fresh grip, visions of wonderful shots rush through our heads.
Too often that’s the extent of our decision process. For the more conscientious buyer, the process may include a discussion with store personnel about who uses the club on tour, what are the most popular sellers, and what does that person think about these clubs. Sometimes we will even hit some ball with the club and watch the flight projected on a big screen.
There are other factors to consider. Important ones. Here are 3 of 6 considerations when making a selection:
1. Where is the clubs center of gravity (CG)? If there was one “most important” characteristic of the club this would be it. The CG is the most important factor determine how solid the ball feels, how easily the club gets the ball in the air BOTTOM LINE: the lower the CG the better.
2. What is the clubs moment of inertia (MOI)? If we can combine a low CG with a high MOI we are talking about an optimally forgiving club. The MOI increases as we move weight from the middle of the club out to the toe and heel (perimeter weighting). BOTTOM LINE: the weight should be distributed around the perimeter and the CG should be as rearward as possible.
3. Imagining a line that runs down through the center of the shaft and right through the bottom of the golf club, what is the distance behind that line where the leading edge of the club begins? Between and eighth and quarter of an inch is considered a moderate offset. This offset is considered to be a game improvement feature. BOTTOM LINE: look for offset.
4. Forged or cast? Test results have proved that excellent golfers have been unable to tell the difference in the feel between forged and cast clubs built to comparable specifications. Forged are generally more expensive and have higher aesthetic value. Cast are more readily consistent in their performance from two iron through wedge.
BOTTOM LINE: if you have narrowed you choices down to two models that are comparable on the above points 1 – 3 and one of the choice is forged and the other is cast, choose the one that is the prettiest or the one that fits your wallet the best.
5. Shaft. Steel and graphite shafts can be equally stiff and equally flexible. The graphite shaft is typically lighter and therefore may allow the player to achieve more club speed. The important feature of the shaft is its flexibility. Since the shaft actually bends “forward” as it approaches the ball the loft of the clubface is increased and therefore the ball will have a steeper trajectory. For slower speed swings a more flexible shaft can mean extra distance.
6. When considering a new set of irons, consider a set consisting of 6 iron through sand wedge. Get hybrids for yardages between 6 iron and 3 wood.
BOTTOM LINE: Get hybrids/fairway woods
BOTTOM BOTTOM Line:
1. New clubs are not the answer for a troubled swing.
2. Buying clubs are like buying tennis shoes. Choose the ones with the features that you want and then be certain to have someone who is trained fit them for you.
There is seldom a round played in which there is not at least one shot where you would like to adjust the trajectory of the ball. You would like it to travel a “little” higher or lower. Too often players get so caught up with making adjustments to accomplish this that they do not make a good swing.
Here is a simple way to accomplish the task without getting in the way of making a good swing.
When you want to have the ball travel one club higher (i.e. the difference between a 7 iron and an 8 iron) play the ball one ball forward from your standard setup. It is important to note that in this case you want the club to be positioned at setup in its normal position. That will put the equivalent of one ball’s diameter between where the club is and where the ball is. When you make your swing the club will arrive down to its normal position. When it gets there it will not find the ball. It then continues moving forward and upward. An instant later, as it is ascending and the clubface is slightly more lofted it will find the ball and send it slightly higher.
This ball will travel slightly left
This ball will be about one club higher and the distance will be about ½ club shorter.
When you want to have the ball travel one club lower, play the ball rearward by the diameter of one ball. In this case the club at address is placed directly behind the ball as it would be normally. Because the ball is back in your stance, the shaft will be leaning slightly forward.
This ball will travel slightly right of target
This ball will be about one club lower and the distance will be about ½ club longer.
shot where you would like to adjust the trajectory of the ball. You would like it to travel a “little” higher or lower. Too often players get so caught up with making adjustments to accomplish this that they do not make a good swing.